Zone Valve Vs Circulator Pump

Zone Valve Vs Circulator Pump. Zoning with zone valves means the (one, big) circulator pump has to be on if even one zone needs heating. If you continue to have annoying water hammer banging when the circulator pump starts (or stops) consider changing out your zone valves to a slow closing valve.

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Whether to run the boiler hotter in addition, increasing from 180 to say, 200. After supplying the heat, the zone valve closes, and. One circulator and four zone valves could use as little as 86 watts.

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Id assume it would work the same way when no zones are open. The wh with its 1 will still dominate the heat zones all running off a single 3/4, but it pointless?

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After supplying the heat, the zone valve closes, and. My house in cny has 5 zones heating 3400 sq ft and 1 zone to the dwh.

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2) separate circulators for each zone, and also a 5th circulator for the 1 1/4 loop from/to the boiler. Circulator pumps cost more than zone valves.

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One circulator and four zone valves could use as little as 86 watts. The wh with its 1 will still dominate the heat zones all running off a single 3/4, but it pointless?

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Davidthomas | nov 08, 2002 10:23am | #7 to answer the original question, sure, you could put in multiple small pumps instead one bigger one and a. The fans of heating zone valves argue that the valves are easier to install, less expensive, and require less maintenance than individual circulator pumps.

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This article describes brands models of forced hot water heating system circulator pumps whose motor speed or circulating speed can be set to varying rates. Operating circulators draw more power any time the zone is actively heating.

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After supplying the heat, the zone valve closes, and. Youll read below that not everyone agrees with this view.

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If a variable speed circulator is used instead of a fixed speed unit, the wattage could run in the low 20s. 2) separate circulators for each zone, and also a 5th circulator for the 1 1/4 loop from/to the boiler.

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This approach seems to make sense especially in the case where the heat loads require different flow rates, or where there are many (more than 5 or so) heat zones. If you continue to have annoying water hammer banging when the circulator pump starts (or stops) consider changing out your zone valves to a slow closing valve.

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1 pump and 4 zone valves total. If you continue to have annoying water hammer banging when the circulator pump starts (or stops) consider changing out your zone valves to a slow closing valve.

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From what i understand, the benefit of multiple circulators is that if one pump dies, the remaining zones still work and have heat. Davidthomas | nov 08, 2002 10:23am | #7 to answer the original question, sure, you could put in multiple small pumps instead one bigger one and a.

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An advantage of zoning with different circulator pumps is that youll only turn on the pumps you need. I think for simplicity you cant beat one circulator and multiple zone valves.

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Only problem i can think of would be when some dufus forgets to open up the valve before turning on the circulator pump. The down side to this is that they cost more to run than zone valves, which are more economical because you only use electric to run one circulator.

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The wh with its 1 will still dominate the heat zones all running off a single 3/4, but it pointless? My house in cny has 5 zones heating 3400 sq ft and 1 zone to the dwh.

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In order to heat a space you have to “deliver” x amount of btus into it. This is a weighted check valve that simply falls shut, since the check is heavier than water, whenever the circulator for a given zone shuts off.

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The zone valve end switch signals the circulator and boiler to turn on. Circulator pumps cost more than zone valves.

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As soon as a zone opens up, the circulator would sense the pressure change and start up. Whether to run the boiler hotter in addition, increasing from 180 to say, 200.

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This is a weighted check valve that simply falls shut, since the check is heavier than water, whenever the circulator for a given zone shuts off. One circulator and four zone valves could use as little as 86 watts.

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Wet rotor circs have real world efficiencies somewhere around 10 %. In fact, i count at least 7 pumps in that system.

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This approach seems to make sense especially in the case where the heat loads require different flow rates, or where there are many (more than 5 or so) heat zones. After supplying the heat, the zone valve closes, and.

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Presented by john barbait’s an age old question and the answer, as always, is “it depends.”when it comes to zoning with circulators or zoning with zone valve. The fans of heating zone valves argue that the valves are easier to install, less expensive, and require less maintenance than individual circulator pumps. The wh with its 1 will still dominate the heat zones all running off a single 3/4, but it pointless?

This Article Describes Brands Models Of Forced Hot Water Heating System Circulator Pumps Whose Motor Speed Or Circulating Speed Can Be Set To Varying Rates.

Zone pumps are practically more expensive than valves. Id assume it would work the same way when no zones are open. From what i understand, the benefit of multiple circulators is that if one pump dies, the remaining zones still work and have heat.

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An installation using zone valves is cheaper that using zone cirulators. Circulator pumps cost more than zone valves. 1 pump and 4 zone valves total.

The Zone Valve End Switch Signals The Circulator And Boiler To Turn On.

This is a weighted check valve that simply falls shut, since the check is heavier than water, whenever the circulator for a given zone shuts off. Wet rotor circs have real world efficiencies somewhere around 10 %. Whether to run the boiler hotter in addition, increasing from 180 to say, 200.

In Fact, I Count At Least 7 Pumps In That System.

Zone valves are more compact and use less electric: Four circulators running, each pulling 80 watts equals 320 watts. 2) separate circulators for each zone, and also a 5th circulator for the 1 1/4 loop from/to the boiler.